The Rebel Cheese Born at High Altitudes
Certain moments in life stand out, leaving a lasting impression. One such moment was during the 2nd of June 2020 long weekend. Like everyone else, I spent the darkest months of the pandemic at home, and like many, I yearned for my first trip outside the city now that restrictions were easing. With a mask on, but the excitement of heading to the Valtellina was unbeatable! I found myself on the trail in Val di Mello, surrounded by a crowd, so much so that the road to the valley was closed at 10 AM due to the influx of visitors. The next day, I opted for Val Gerola, a quieter, less-frequented destination, and we were just a few.
I recommend Val Gerola for several reasons. It sits at about 1,000 meters above sea level, where the air is fresh and clean. There are opportunities for further hikes, such as reaching Lago Pescegallo or going rock climbing at Gerolasass (valtellina.it, valgerola.it). Upon arriving in Gerola Alta, one discovers the story of Storico Ribelle, a Slow Food presidium. But what kind of cheese is it? It’s a Bitto, made in the traditional manner, without any added chemicals, and is protected by the Valli del Bitto Spa, a benefit company founded in 2003 by Paolo Ciapparelli, former president of the Consortium for the Safeguarding of the Historic Bitto, alongside some local entrepreneurs. About ten producers are part of the initiative, and they are paid an ethical price that covers the higher costs involved in adopting the traditional, labor-intensive production method.
Storico Ribelle is made exclusively in the summer months during alpine grazing. The cows and goats feed only on alpine pastures, and the milk is processed immediately after milking, often in structures called “calècc,” which function as cheesemaking facilities near the pasture. The fresh cow’s milk, with a percentage of goat milk added, is placed in a large copper cauldron shaped like an inverted bell. The cheesemaker does everything here, right on the pasture.
Upon arriving in town, you can witness the result of all this hard work at the Centro del Bitto in Gerola Alta, which houses a cheese aging room that’s a real gem of the area. Inside, there is a hall that serves as both a shop and tasting room. In addition to Storico Ribelle sold by the cut, they offer fresh maschèrpa (whey cheese) during the summer months and aged maschèrpa in the winter. During winter, they also sell unpasteurized butter, available only at that time of year. For lunch, there are also some specialties where Bitto is featured, along with polenta taragna—a typical dish of the area. You can enjoy it all while sipping a glass of wine from the best Valtellina wineries.
Before buying or tasting, take a trip downstairs to see the treasure—the Bitto aging room. Here, large forms of Bitto are maturing and can be purchased before they are fully aged, engraved with a personal dedication, and then picked up when they’re ready. These cheeses sell out quickly, and those from 2025 will be available starting in January. You can reserve them by filling out a form and making a deposit (https://storicoribelle.com/). It’s an important and expensive gift, perhaps to be shared among several families to ensure that wonderful smell and flavor of the pastures, 100% natural.